1. PICK THE COLLAR THAT FITS YOUR FACE
If you have a wide face . . .
Wear a narrow collar, which lengthens your face, says David Hamilton, a co-owner of Hamilton Shirts.
If you have a medium face . . .
Go with a semi-spread collar. It’s classic, and it will create the perfect cradle for a tie knot.
If you have a thin face . . .
A spread collar can strengthen your jawline, says Hamilton.
2. TRAIN YOUR TAILOR
1. Strengthen the Silhouette
Have the shoulder seams set directly atop your shoulders, says Matt Harpalani of Imparali Custom Tailors.
2. Show Some Hand
The sleeves should end at the crook of your wrist. You want them short enough to leave a quarter inch of your shirt cuffs exposed.
3. Cut It Short
Ask your tailor to take up the bottom of your jacket so it covers most of your butt.
3. DRESS FOR YOUR HEIGHT
If you’re short, pick a one-button suit.
A single-button suit leaves more of your shirt exposed, so you look taller. “That longer V in your chest will elongate your torso,” says Harpalani.
If you’re average height, go with a two-button suit.
Truth is, nobody looks bad in a two-button suit, says Harpalani. If you’re medium height—or just content to look short or tall—make this your default.
If you’re tall, use three buttons.
Big man in a small world? This is your cut. The longer front panel leaves a shorter vertical line coming from your collar, so you appear like less of a giant.
4. RESCUE WET SHOES
First, wipe them off with a clean cloth. “Leaving leather wet can ruin it,” says Lane Gerson, cofounder of the footwear brand Jack Erwin.
Put crumpled newspaper in them; replace the paper when saturated. Repeat until almost dry; insert cedar shoe trees.
Rub them down with a good leather conditioner.